On the couture catwalks of Paris, designers such as Ralph & Russo, Stéphane Rolland and Giambattista Valli all embellished cuffs with a dazzling arrangement of crystal flourishes. But while fashion houses were adding an integrated jewel-like quality to garments, high jewellery brands have been creating bracelets that mimic the qualities of fabric.
At the Paris shows, Chanel High Jewellery unveiled its first ever collection dedicated entirely to tweed. Gold and diamonds are rendered to be as supple as the Scottish handwoven woollen cloth, with undulating stone-set structures of different widths and profiles providing a framework through which gold chain is threaded. The result is an articulating, textural composition that captures the intrinsic irregularity and quality of tweed.
Kendra Pariseault’s Résonance bangle has pink sapphires peeping through distended yellow-gold openings that resemble the tautness of stretched elastic. The extraordinary tension is softened by the pastel-hued stones. In contrast, the Giunco bracelet by Vhernier appears supple, with interwoven gold sheets handcrafted to resemble the agility and malleability of rushes.
Flexibility is key when it comes to Carolina Bucci’s pinched woven bracelet, handcrafted on a centuries-old Florentine loom. The piece is literally a combination of silk thread and gold chain, which gives it the soft, tactile qualities of fabric with a pinched detail. A resemblance to silk is what appeals on Buccellati’s Schedir bracelet, finished with the house’s extraordinary engraving techniques. The matte sheen of the white-gold surface is beautifully complemented by delicate lace-like edging and ornate diamond settings.