Five fine-jewellery cuffs with fabric-like flair

Designers are giving precious metals a tactile twist with bracelets that resemble tweed, reed or elastic

Chanel white gold, diamond and onyx Tweed de Chanel bracelet, POA
Chanel white gold, diamond and onyx Tweed de Chanel bracelet, POA

On the couture catwalks of Paris, designers such as Ralph & Russo, Stéphane Rolland and Giambattista Valli all embellished cuffs with a dazzling arrangement of crystal flourishes. But while fashion houses were adding an integrated jewel-like quality to garments, high jewellery brands have been creating bracelets that mimic the qualities of fabric. 

Chanel gold, platinum, diamond, sapphire, pearl and spinel Tweed de Chanel bracelet, POA
Chanel gold, platinum, diamond, sapphire, pearl and spinel Tweed de Chanel bracelet, POA
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At the Paris shows, Chanel High Jewellery unveiled its first ever collection dedicated entirely to tweed. Gold and diamonds are rendered to be as supple as the Scottish handwoven woollen cloth, with undulating stone-set structures of different widths and profiles providing a framework through which gold chain is threaded. The result is an articulating, textural composition that captures the intrinsic irregularity and quality of tweed.

Kendra Pariseault gold and sapphire Résonance bangle, $30,000
Kendra Pariseault gold and sapphire Résonance bangle, $30,000
Vhernier white-gold and diamond Giunco bracelet, POA
Vhernier white-gold and diamond Giunco bracelet, POA

Kendra Pariseault’s Résonance bangle has pink sapphires peeping through distended yellow-gold openings that resemble the tautness of stretched elastic. The extraordinary tension is softened by the pastel-hued stones. In contrast, the Giunco bracelet by Vhernier appears supple, with interwoven gold sheets handcrafted to resemble the agility and malleability of rushes. 

Carolina Bucci gold and silk woven bracelet, £6,380
Carolina Bucci gold and silk woven bracelet, £6,380
Buccellati gold and diamond Schedir bracelet, £160,000
Buccellati gold and diamond Schedir bracelet, £160,000

Flexibility is key when it comes to Carolina Bucci’s pinched woven bracelet, handcrafted on a centuries-old Florentine loom. The piece is literally a combination of silk thread and gold chain, which gives it the soft, tactile qualities of fabric with a pinched detail. A resemblance to silk is what appeals on Buccellati’s Schedir bracelet, finished with the house’s extraordinary engraving techniques. The matte sheen of the white-gold surface is beautifully complemented by delicate lace-like edging and ornate diamond settings.

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