The New York designer reviving a Victorian jewellery trend

Larkspur & Hawk’s carriage covers give earrings and necklaces a clever new look

Olivia quartz and yellow gold button earrings with yellow gold filigree carriage cover, from $1,500
Olivia quartz and yellow gold button earrings with yellow gold filigree carriage cover, from $1,500

It was the lost Georgian art of foiled jewellery that prompted Emily Satloff to found Larkspur & Hawk, a line of modern accessories rooted in historical tradition. Over the past 10 years, the New York-based designer’s singular signature pieces – from historically inspired rivière necklaces (from $1,800) with foil-lined white quartz in shades of azure, citrine and pale lavender, to statement-making rings (from $850) and chandelier earrings (from $450) – have attracted a dedicated following that includes Zoe Kravitz, Sarah Jessica Parker and Oprah Winfrey. 

Sadie quartz, black rhodium and silver earrings with gold filigree carriage cover, from $1,500
Sadie quartz, black rhodium and silver earrings with gold filigree carriage cover, from $1,500
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Most recently, Satloff has channelled her feminine-though-never-frilly aesthetic into a revival of a long-forgotten Victorian creation – carriage covers. This ingenious device for disguising one’s fine jewels from thieves when being transported by horse-drawn carriage (hence the name) took the form of simple, unadorned orbs, usually in matte gold, which clipped over the diamonds, rubies or pearls. “I fell in love with the romantic history of carriage covers,” says Satloff, “but they are incredibly relevant today. They have a clean, graphic silhouette and a versatility that is perfect for right now.”

Sadie quartz and rose gold necklace with gold filigree carriage cover, from $1,500
Sadie quartz and rose gold necklace with gold filigree carriage cover, from $1,500
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Her contemporary interpretations (from $1,500) are sleek and sculptural, and can be created in a delightful array of bespoke options – from yellow- or rose-gold boules embellished with fine filigrée to polished silver spheres for those after a more minimalist line – for both earrings and necklaces. Commissions can be done in person at Larkspur & Hawk’s New York atelier, or via phone and email. The collaborative process begins with the selection of cover before the stones are chosen. Foiled quartz drops from Larkspur & Hawk’s Olivia button earring line – hues of ice blue, ballet pink and magenta as well as white and grey – are a good starting point, but Satloff is also happy to create more complex designs and incorporate mementos from one’s own jewellery box.

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