Jeweller Bina Goenka has been quietly crafting bespoke pieces for private clients for 25 years from her Mumbai atelier and a small appointment-only showroom in London’s Knightsbridge. But the word is out. Spurred by a globe-trotting clientele – she is the go-to designer for Bollywood stars – and increasing demand worldwide for her signature designs, fusing a high-jewellery ethos with Indian artisanal tradition, Goenka has created a ready-to-wear collection for an online audience: a project that comes to fruition in early November at Net-a-Porter.
The Prêt collection (priced from £4,500 to £60,000) has nature-inspired themes and vibrant colours that are brought to life in Zambian emeralds and Mozambique rubies. Floral motifs are particularly strong, from pink droplet earrings topped by 6.39cts of flower-shaped rubies to an exploding cluster of petals crafted from mother-of-pearl, rubellites and diamonds, and beaded tassel earrings – in either emeralds and diamonds or rubies and sapphires – that hang like ripe fruit from the branch.
The designer also takes inspiration from the churning ocean in a pair of drop earrings featuring sea-green shell pearls crowned with coral-esque clusters of light brown and white diamonds. Another pair of drop earrings is crafted from mother-of-pearl discs trimmed in emeralds and diamonds, recalling the shimmering surface of the sea. In addition, mismatched earrings pair an ultra-feminine stud composed of delicate ruby-dusted flowers with an ear cuff embellished with pink mother-of-pearl petals and white diamonds.
The Prêt collection also highlights Goenka’s mastery with semiprecious stones, which are expected to feature in future ready-to-wear designs. Eye-catchers include a pair of gold amulet-like earrings set with 13.5cts of tiger’s-eye that have a slick 1970s vibe, and a web of peridot and amethyst triangles, pearls and diamonds that makes for a funky pair of mismatched earrings.