Jeweller to Bollywood stars hits Net-a-Porter

Bina Goenka’s joyously coloured ready-to-wear jewels are inspired by nature and India’s glittering heritage

Gold, diamond, ruby and pink mother-of-pearl mismatched earrings; collection £4,500-£60,000
Gold, diamond, ruby and pink mother-of-pearl mismatched earrings; collection £4,500-£60,000

Jeweller Bina Goenka has been quietly crafting bespoke pieces for private clients for 25 years from her Mumbai atelier and a small appointment-only showroom in London’s Knightsbridge. But the word is out. Spurred by a globe-trotting clientele – she is the go-to designer for Bollywood stars – and increasing demand worldwide for her signature designs, fusing a high-jewellery ethos with Indian artisanal tradition, Goenka has created a ready-to-wear collection for an online audience: a project that comes to fruition in early November at Net-a-Porter.

Gold, diamond and Mozambique ruby earrings
Gold, diamond and Mozambique ruby earrings
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Gold, diamond, ruby and mother-of-pearl earrings
Gold, diamond, ruby and mother-of-pearl earrings

The Prêt collection (priced from £4,500 to £60,000) has nature-inspired themes and vibrant colours that are brought to life in Zambian emeralds and Mozambique rubies. Floral motifs are particularly strong, from pink droplet earrings topped by 6.39cts of flower-shaped rubies to an exploding cluster of petals crafted from mother-of-pearl, rubellites and diamonds, and beaded tassel earrings – in either emeralds and diamonds or rubies and sapphires – that hang like ripe fruit from the branch.

Gold, diamond, ruby and rubellite earrings
Gold, diamond, ruby and rubellite earrings
Gold, diamond, emerald and pearl earrings
Gold, diamond, emerald and pearl earrings
Gold, diamond and tiger’s-eye earrings
Gold, diamond and tiger’s-eye earrings

The designer also takes inspiration from the churning ocean in a pair of drop earrings featuring sea-green shell pearls crowned with coral-esque clusters of light brown and white diamonds. Another pair of drop earrings is crafted from mother-of-pearl discs trimmed in emeralds and diamonds, recalling the shimmering surface of the sea. In addition, mismatched earrings pair an ultra-feminine stud composed of delicate ruby-dusted flowers with an ear cuff embellished with pink mother-of-pearl petals and white diamonds.

Gold, white- and brown-diamond and shell-pearl earrings
Gold, white- and brown-diamond and shell-pearl earrings
Gold, diamond and Zambian emerald earrings
Gold, diamond and Zambian emerald earrings
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The Prêt collection also highlights Goenka’s mastery with semiprecious stones, which are expected to feature in future ready-to-wear designs. Eye-catchers include a pair of gold amulet-like earrings set with 13.5cts of tiger’s-eye that have a slick 1970s vibe, and a web of peridot and amethyst triangles, pearls and diamonds that makes for a funky pair of mismatched earrings.

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