A vintage-inspired watch from Patek Philippe

The watchmaker has looked to its archives for the design of the 5320 Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe white gold 5320 Perpetual Calendar on alligator strap, £60,090
Patek Philippe white gold 5320 Perpetual Calendar on alligator strap, £60,090

The design of Patek Philippe’s 5320 is all new, and yet Patek aficionados will find it very familiar. The company made the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, and the 5320 sensitively revisits the history of what, for Patek, is a landmark complication: it uses the dial layout of the 1526 and 3448 (watches from the 1940s and 1960s respectively), with the day and month apertures at 12 o’clock, and moonphase and date dial at six o’clock.

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The 3450, which succeeded the 3448, is recalled with the leap year indicator, which appears between four and five o’clock, while the stepped lugs are influenced by the 2405, a 60-year‑old watch in the Patek museum. A further retro feel is imparted by the syringe hands, of the sort often found on midcentury watches. Given that this is Patek Philippe, these design cues are subtle, requiring familiarity with the marque to be appreciated.

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For more new watches that draw on vintage design, click here

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