Of Sicily’s seven Aeolian Islands, it’s Panarea that tends to hog the spotlight. Salina, though, is a less commercial and – during July-August, decidedly less look-at-me! – affair. Capofaro (www.capofaro.it; from €350) is its most elegant address. Owned by the Tasca d’Almerita family, its 20 rooms and suites are distributed across a handful of beautifully upcycled field workers’ cottages in the Malvasia vineyards, from which the Tascas produce their dry version of that wine. The decor is the quietly assertive kind at which Sicilia bene seems to excel: wicker and natural wood; hits of molten orange or saffron amid much clean whitewash; a cliff’s-edge bar overlooking a stunning teak-decked pool. And the food is sublime – chef Ludovico De Vivo will confer with guests to determine their culinary proclivities. But the real joy of this place is the marriage of privacy and nature: oaks and gum trees frame views of Stromboli in the distance, and profusions of bougainvillea and cacti place you squarely in the Sicily people dream of.