Paraty, Brazil's colonial town with the literary-cultural pedigree, is a dreamy place – the mossy, cobbled streets, richly painted bungalows and scenographic spills of bougainvillea never seem to end. Tetê Etrusco opened Casa Turquesa (www.casaturquesaparaty.com.br; from £345 for two people, pictured) here six years ago, in a turquoise-shuttered mansion fronting the promenade along the sea. The ebullient Etrusco has an unerring eye for easy elegance that’s evident everywhere, from the drapey kaftans and delicate jewellery in the boutique to the walls of riotous botanical prints in the nine suites, all with wide-wood-plank floors and a mix of contemporary design and colonial antiques. The central courtyard is a lazy idyll, with a tiny pool and gazebos. There’s gorgeous, tropical-influenced tea to help yourself to each afternoon, and there’s Etrusco herself, who has every imaginable service, destination and desirable on speed dial, and radiant smiles to spare.