For years, tourism along the lush coast of Kenya suffered the ravages of security fallout. As it rebounds, the reopening of Hemingways Watamu (hemingways-collection.com; from £189) – a favourite of Brits and Europeans when it opened in 1988, and “older” sister of the quietly glamorous Hemingways Nairobi – couldn’t be better timed. The multimillion-dollar renovation sees the number of rooms and suites reduced to 39, as well as 21 one-, two- and four-bedroom residences (available to buy, for those who fall for the exotic charms of Watamu and neighbouring Malindi). Plantation shutters, carved four-poster beds and chic wood decor abound. But outside is where it’s at: the hotel is surrounded by the Watamu Marine National Park, where sea turtles, whale sharks and over 100 coral species can be found amid the reefs.