Menswear’s seersucker moment

Cool, crisp seersucker is making a comeback in everything from tailoring to sportswear

The Gigi seersucker jacket, £210, and matching trousers, £210
The Gigi seersucker jacket, £210, and matching trousers, £210

Seersucker’s journey from subcontinental performance fabric to premium menswear staple continues apace. Two years ago I reported on the cool renaissance of seersucker, but now new designs and uses are leading the material in interesting directions.

From left: Woolrich polyester seersucker Sleeping shirt, £140. Nanamica cotton/polyester seersucker pullover anorak, £175. Drake’s Solbiati seersucker suit, £1,195
From left: Woolrich polyester seersucker Sleeping shirt, £140. Nanamica cotton/polyester seersucker pullover anorak, £175. Drake’s Solbiati seersucker suit, £1,195

For example, seersucker now brings an appealing crisp, matte texture to tailoring. Take the seersucker dinner suits at P Johnson. A tux (from £1,350 made-to-measure) in a striped navy/black silk/cotton from Biella, in Piedmont, is soft but still looks sharp enough for dressier occasions. “The silk/cotton blend is a bit slinkier. It can be 35 degrees and humid, but quality seersucker rises to the occasion,” says Johnson. And at Corneliani a new slate-grey wool/silk seersucker makes for an urbane day suit (£1,206). “Seersucker is always fresh and light, but this fabric gives extra movement and a rich feel,” says style director Stefano Gaudioso. At Drake’s, an olive Solbiati seersucker suit (£1,195) with high-rise trousers makes a bold statement. And at Thom Sweeney, Loro Piana “dice check” seersucker jackets (£1,180) feel fresh in either a smart navy and blue/black or summery white and navy. 

Advertisement

This chic tailoring harks back to a key motif of early 1980s Giorgio Armani, and this season the brand presents crisply refined versions of the look. A new, wider, jacquard seersucker has taut threads alternating with slacker ones to give the fabric an undulating finish. I am coveting the double-breasted “heritage” suit (jacket, £1,650, trousers, £630), and the longer-length chalky-white and house-griege suit jackets with low fastenings are killer cool. For a slightly different smart summer accent, look to the Mandarin-collar jacket (£1,150) in rich beige seersucker.

Giorgio Armani seersucker jacket, £1,150
Giorgio Armani seersucker jacket, £1,150

A more casual, sporty style comes in Armani’s asymmetrical zip-up top (£3,350) in seersucker grosgrain jacquard, with matching wide trousers (£720). These new grosgrain seersuckers have a knockabout, workwear feel, while still evoking luxe elegance. They are also informing a wave of smocky overshirts, many with matching bottoms, such as Lou Dalton’s gingham utility jacket (£480); P Johnson’s laidback suit in a sporty Japanese-cotton seersucker, pairing a workwear jacket (from £360) and drawstring trousers (from £210); or The Gigi’s cool blue/grey stripe jacket (£210) and trousers (£210). The Gigi’s more tailored Art jacket (£580) is also stylish – a  lightweight, soft, black and white Vichy seersucker that’s washed with pigments to create a colour mix with a vintage feel. 

Thom Sweeney wool seersucker jacket, £1,180
Thom Sweeney wool seersucker jacket, £1,180

Elsewhere, new stretch seersuckers are being used to update bomber/blousons designs. Paul Smith’s natty bombers (£325) and matching trousers (£325) in navy/white/yellow check, or silver/sky-blue check, use a fabric commissioned from the Faliero Sarti mill in Italy. Lou Dalton reinterprets her classic Boston bomber (£470) in a cotton/polyester gingham seersucker (“It’s even more hard-wearing and easy to wear,” says Dalton). And Pal Zileri’s smart blouson (£1,190) now comes in a luxe-performance, water‑repellent seersucker. 

From left: Corneliani wool/silk seersucker suit, £1,206. Pal Zileri wool seersucker blouson, £1,190. Lou Dalton cotton/polyester seersucker bomber jacket, £470
From left: Corneliani wool/silk seersucker suit, £1,206. Pal Zileri wool seersucker blouson, £1,190. Lou Dalton cotton/polyester seersucker bomber jacket, £470

Lastly, there’s a rugged seersucker story to be told. Take Nanamica’s Wind pullover anorak (£175) that uses stretchy threads for weft and cotton for warp for a supple texture and relatively shiny finish. Or Woolrich’s new Outdoor line, which interprets seersucker in an all-American, great-outdoors style using a two-way-stretch-polyester double weave. The collection runs from trucker-style hats (£50) and shoulder bags (£45) to a quick-drying mesh seersucker Sleeping shirt (£140). 

P Johnson silk/cotton seersucker tux, from £1,350
P Johnson silk/cotton seersucker tux, from £1,350

Advertisement

See also

Advertisement
Loading