All about weave: fashion falls for craftwork

This season’s textured accessories are inspired by all things woven. By Baya Simons. Styling by Raphaëlle Helmore

On floor, from left: Dolce & Gabbana leather bag, £2,650. Giorgio Armani leather ankle boots, £1,750. Hermès calfskin and silk Faubourg, £4,000. On chair, from left: Bottega Veneta nappa-leather sandals, £1,225. Fendi lambskin large Peekaboo, £5,200. Santoni leather Marlene loafers, £620. Ermanno Scervino vinyl and calfskin bag, £1,930. Hanging from ceiling: Michael Kors Collection calfskin and rattan Bancroft, £1,420. Mint leather and solid walnut armchair, £5,200
On floor, from left: Dolce & Gabbana leather bag, £2,650. Giorgio Armani leather ankle boots, £1,750. Hermès calfskin and silk Faubourg, £4,000. On chair, from left: Bottega Veneta nappa-leather sandals, £1,225. Fendi lambskin large Peekaboo, £5,200. Santoni leather Marlene loafers, £620. Ermanno Scervino vinyl and calfskin bag, £1,930. Hanging from ceiling: Michael Kors Collection calfskin and rattan Bancroft, £1,420. Mint leather and solid walnut armchair, £5,200 | Image: Annie Lai

For last year’s Salone del Mobile design show in Milan, Spanish fashion house Loewe – helmed by contemporary craft poster boy Jonathan Anderson – asked 11 weavers to create objets d’art using Loewe leather. By asking them to work with leather rather than traditional reed or willow, the brand said, the makers’ skills were cast in a contemporary light. The resulting exhibition presented finely wrought, sculptural baskets and vessels. A year later, Anderson’s fascination with weaving has seeped into the fashion psyche. This spring, designers turned to the textures of the handmade for their collections. Bottega Veneta gave its classic intrecciato a contemporary makeover by supersizing the weave, using thick strips of leather on clutches and shoes. Ermanno Scervino took the classic tote and gave it a spring refresh with brightly coloured braided vinyl and calfskin handles. Prada did cute woven bucket bags in popping tones, and Boss mapped the texture onto clothing, making leather skirts and dresses in a stripy close-knit weave, giving them a touch of Riviera glamour. “Weaving is probably one of the oldest techniques, and it’s still going today,” said Anderson in an interview this year. “Craft is innovation.”

Gabriela Hearst cotton and leather Coiro trench, £4,950, from selfridges.com. From left: Stella McCartney organic cotton and Eco alter-nappa bag, £1,695. Kenzo leather Shrimps, £450. Chloé leather Darryl, £1,250. Ermanno Scervino vinyl and calfskin tote, £1,930. Emilio Pucci leather and straw Dora, £1,080. Mint leather and solid walnut armchair, £5,200
Gabriela Hearst cotton and leather Coiro trench, £4,950, from selfridges.com. From left: Stella McCartney organic cotton and Eco alter-nappa bag, £1,695. Kenzo leather Shrimps, £450. Chloé leather Darryl, £1,250. Ermanno Scervino vinyl and calfskin tote, £1,930. Emilio Pucci leather and straw Dora, £1,080. Mint leather and solid walnut armchair, £5,200 | Image: Annie Lai
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Boss leather skirt (worn over dress), £399, matching dress, £499, and leather and gabardine bag (under arm), £399. Bottega Veneta nappa-leather clutch (in right hand), £6,165. Prada calf-leather bag (in left hand), £1,720
Boss leather skirt (worn over dress), £399, matching dress, £499, and leather and gabardine bag (under arm), £399. Bottega Veneta nappa-leather clutch (in right hand), £6,165. Prada calf-leather bag (in left hand), £1,720 | Image: Annie Lai

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