I’m approaching winter this year with a certain glee, as I have a new coat ready and waiting in the wings. The navy-blue boiled-wool Yvonne coat ($950, also available in Loden green) from recently launched line Permanent Collection caught my eye with its pared-down silhouette and meticulous attention to detail. In a belted, almost bathrobe-like style with a full funnel collar, it can look both casual and unstructured worn with slouchy jeans as well as creating a more cinched, put-together profile paired with tailored trousers. It’s a particularly flattering fit on my shorter-than-average frame and features sumptuous silk-lined sleeves and deep pockets.
I have the distinct feeling that my made-in-New-York coat will be a wardrobe workhorse for many seasons to come, and therein lies the crux of this new label created by London-based Californians Mariah Nielson and Fanny Singer. All the Permanent Collection pieces are meant to be just that: permanent, timeless and elegant clothing and accessories based on classic designs. The wool/crepe Agnes coat ($1,200), for example, takes a tuxedo jacket as its starting point, while a pair of simple French leather slider sandals ($350) have been ever-so-slightly reimagined.
Founders Nielson and Singer – the daughter of celebrated chef Alice Waters – were both studying design and art history when they met at a party in 2012, so it’s not surprising that their tightly edited debut range combines clothing and accessories with a four-piece set of sculptural porcelain cups ($350), inspired by the designs of Nielson’s father, celebrated artist JB Blunk. And their second collection, which debuts in November, will see scarves and jewellery added to their stylish offering.