Disa Allsopp Jewellery

A cult jeweller famed for her organic, roughly hewn designs

I have long had a love affair with the arresting simplicity of Disa Allsopp’s jewellery. Ever since my father discovered her at the Goldsmiths’ Fair 10 years ago and bought me one of her delicate coiled rings (£700) – a spiral of bashed gold in spaghetti curls topped with a crimson garnet – I have cherished her designs. From her north London studio, she shapes, files, crafts maquettes and wields her repoussé hammer to texture her 18ct to 22ct gold rings, necklaces and earrings.

Some remind me of the minimalism of Roman jewellery, or the Incan and Aztec pieces I saw in Bogotá’s spectacular gold museum. Less is more with her skewwhiff rounded earrings (£600) – little flat discs that are still rough, matte and imperfectly spherical. Since being given my first piece, which heartbreakingly I lost one summer, I have now acquired three pairs of earrings, two necklaces and a ring. My favourite of the necklaces is a bunch of silver threads that form a choker (£500), supporting a little grape-like cluster of garnets in the centre. It is both sophisticated and unshowy at the same time.

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Although I favour Allsopp’s gold pieces, she also does a great line in oxidised silver, which is a little more severe – almost gothic. I adore a silver, gold and garnet ring (£700, first picture) that I got last year for Christmas, but top of my wish list is her gold disc necklace (£5,000, second picture), with the ultimate dream being to commission something from her – perhaps a replica of the ring that got away.

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Formore contemporary jewellery with a timeless edge, bookmark Cape Town’s Christopher Reid and New York’s Jamie Wolf.

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