My slight obsession with New York jeweller Jamie Wolf’s delicate rings, earrings and necklaces began with a simple pavé band ($1,680). This rose gold, channel-set piece was a present, but slightly too big – and going to get it resized opened the door to glittering temptation.
Wolf, a former New York City Ballet dancer, brings elements of dance into her designs. “Both depend on thoughtful presentation and co-ordination,” says Wolf. “In ballet, it’s the placement of the arms, hands, head and feet. With jewellery it’s shape, scale, colour and movement. Ultimately, all of these studied details should look completely effortless.”
A recent collaboration with fashion designer Derek Lam celebrates New York City Ballet’s fiftieth anniversary, each of the pieces inspired by choreographer George Balanchine. Particularly striking are the silver and black rhodium Midsummer Night’s Dream earrings ($690) and a Four Temperaments cuff embellished with black and white diamonds ($1,890). Twenty per cent of proceeds benefit the dance company.
Among Wolf’s standout pieces (and I have been eyeing up many) in her current collection are contemporary cocktail sparklers, including Trinity rings ($4,790) in white gold with black and white diamonds, reminiscent of the lace-like designs of Buccellati. Better for daytime are octagon labradorite rings ($3,400) and Bisou rings ($3,990, pictured) set with rose of France and minute diamonds.
The classic elegance of Wolf’s pieces are garnering the attention of clients such as Paris Opera Ballet director Benjamin Millepied and Natalie Portman, for whom she created a custom wedding ring. My own thin ring – just 2mm in width – looks stunning when stacked, paired with one of her stronger, statement creations, or worn solo. I wear it every day – I’ve even swapped it for my wedding band.