Nine bold jewels using mixed-shaped gems

Playful assortments of stones add offbeat charm to cocktail rings, statement pendants and cascading earrings

Sorellina Multi-Coil ring with diamonds and other stones in 18ct gold, $3,400
Sorellina Multi-Coil ring with diamonds and other stones in 18ct gold, $3,400

Jewellers are using stones in unexpected combinations of shapes – and often in myriad hues too – to eye-catching effect. Here are nine of the best.

Sorellina

The sinuous Coil Twist ring encircles the finger with a scrolling gold band studded with bezel-set emeralds, morganite and candy-hued sapphires – in rectangles, circles and teardrops of various sizes. Along the shank, a black-gold setting provides a dramatic backdrop for white diamonds$3,400; sorellinanewyork.com.

Retrouvaí Treasure Bomb ring with gemstones in 14ct gold, price upon request
Retrouvaí Treasure Bomb ring with gemstones in 14ct gold, price upon request

Retrouvai

With its curvaceous silhouette and mouth-watering gemstone palette, the Treasure Bomb ring from LA jeweller Retrouvaí is distinguished by an array of fancy-shaped, prong-set stones that appear to float in liquid-like yellow gold. Price on request, to order; retrouvai.com.

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Brent Neale

The versatile Gypsy cuff is set with a playful assortment of faceted peridot, citrine, amethyst and blue topaz – interspersed with heart-shaped cabochons in lapis lazuli, coral and turquoise. $14,850, to order; brentneale.com.

Brent Neale Multi-Stone Gypsy cuff in 18ct gold, $14,850
Brent Neale Multi-Stone Gypsy cuff in 18ct gold, $14,850

Mindi Mond

The New York label’s entire Fancy Cut collection features an assortment of marquise, emerald, princess, heart and pear-cut diamonds. “I find beauty and excitement looking at various cuts of diamonds,” says Mond, a lifelong collector of estate jewellery, “so what’s better than combining them all?” Fancy Cut necklace, $14,000; mindimondny.com.

Mindi Mond Fancy Cut necklace with diamonds, $14,000
Mindi Mond Fancy Cut necklace with diamonds, $14,000

Tabbah

The B-Glam multi-finger ring updates the classic diamond trilogy by splitting a mixed trio of gem shapes across an elegant rose-gold shank. “I wanted to design an architectural piece imbued with a sense of symmetry, clarity and sophistication,” says Nagib Tabbah. “The combination of round, square and marquise-shaped diamonds exudes a subtle equilibrium that is both distinct and elegant.” £18,500; tabbah.com.

Tabbah B-Glam ring with diamonds in rose gold, £18,500
Tabbah B-Glam ring with diamonds in rose gold, £18,500

Polly Wales

Multicoloured sapphires in various shapes form the floral centrepiece of Polly Wales’ d’Ornano padlock pendant. Her signature style sees gems cast directly into the precious metal, resulting in the rough-luxe aesthetic that makes her pieces truly one of a kind. £8,200; from tomfoolerylondon.co.uk.

Polly Wales d’Ornano padlock pendant with multicoloured sapphires in gold, £8,200
Polly Wales d’Ornano padlock pendant with multicoloured sapphires in gold, £8,200

Ruth Tomlinson

The precise facets of an oval sapphire and emerald-cut aquamarine contrast engagingly with the rounded softness of pearls on Ruth Tomlinson’s asymmetric ring. A bubble-like sprinkling of yellow-gold granules and sparkling diamonds nod to the underwater worlds and nautical treasures that inspired this design. £1,980; ruthtomlinson.com.

Ruth Tomlinson ring with sapphire and aquamarine in gold, £1,980
Ruth Tomlinson ring with sapphire and aquamarine in gold, £1,980

De Beers

High-jewellery collections are not immune to the charms of multi-shape gemstones. Inspired by the Roman god of fire, De Beers’ double-stranded Vulcan earrings incorporate cascading drops of polished white diamonds and natural-coloured rough diamonds in glowing laval hues. Price on request; debeers.co.uk.

De Beers Vulcan earrings with diamonds, price on request
De Beers Vulcan earrings with diamonds, price on request

Aisha Baker

Embodying “a rainbow of happy tears to celebrate magical and meaningful connections”, the Blink earring set is a witty study in opposites. One earring is a single slimline gold chain, topped with a dainty diamond and tailed with a white topaz briolette; the other is an eye, its lid a tessellated arrangement of opal, emerald, ruby, sapphire and pink tourmaline. $6,400; shop.aishabaker.com.

Aisha Baker Blink earrings with diamonds and other stones in gold, $6,400
Aisha Baker Blink earrings with diamonds and other stones in gold, $6,400

Maia Adams is a jewellery consultant and co-founder of Adorn Insight (adorninsight.com).

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