Jewellers are using stones in unexpected combinations of shapes – and often in myriad hues too – to eye-catching effect. Here are nine of the best.
The sinuous Coil Twist ring encircles the finger with a scrolling gold band studded with bezel-set emeralds, morganite and candy-hued sapphires – in rectangles, circles and teardrops of various sizes. Along the shank, a black-gold setting provides a dramatic backdrop for white diamonds. $3,400; sorellinanewyork.com.
With its curvaceous silhouette and mouth-watering gemstone palette, the Treasure Bomb ring from LA jeweller Retrouvaí is distinguished by an array of fancy-shaped, prong-set stones that appear to float in liquid-like yellow gold. Price on request, to order; retrouvai.com.
The versatile Gypsy cuff is set with a playful assortment of faceted peridot, citrine, amethyst and blue topaz – interspersed with heart-shaped cabochons in lapis lazuli, coral and turquoise. $14,850, to order; brentneale.com.
The New York label’s entire Fancy Cut collection features an assortment of marquise, emerald, princess, heart and pear-cut diamonds. “I find beauty and excitement looking at various cuts of diamonds,” says Mond, a lifelong collector of estate jewellery, “so what’s better than combining them all?” Fancy Cut necklace, $14,000; mindimondny.com.
The B-Glam multi-finger ring updates the classic diamond trilogy by splitting a mixed trio of gem shapes across an elegant rose-gold shank. “I wanted to design an architectural piece imbued with a sense of symmetry, clarity and sophistication,” says Nagib Tabbah. “The combination of round, square and marquise-shaped diamonds exudes a subtle equilibrium that is both distinct and elegant.” £18,500; tabbah.com.
Multicoloured sapphires in various shapes form the floral centrepiece of Polly Wales’ d’Ornano padlock pendant. Her signature style sees gems cast directly into the precious metal, resulting in the rough-luxe aesthetic that makes her pieces truly one of a kind. £8,200; from tomfoolerylondon.co.uk.
The precise facets of an oval sapphire and emerald-cut aquamarine contrast engagingly with the rounded softness of pearls on Ruth Tomlinson’s asymmetric ring. A bubble-like sprinkling of yellow-gold granules and sparkling diamonds nod to the underwater worlds and nautical treasures that inspired this design. £1,980; ruthtomlinson.com.
High-jewellery collections are not immune to the charms of multi-shape gemstones. Inspired by the Roman god of fire, De Beers’ double-stranded Vulcan earrings incorporate cascading drops of polished white diamonds and natural-coloured rough diamonds in glowing laval hues. Price on request; debeers.co.uk.
Embodying “a rainbow of happy tears to celebrate magical and meaningful connections”, the Blink earring set is a witty study in opposites. One earring is a single slimline gold chain, topped with a dainty diamond and tailed with a white topaz briolette; the other is an eye, its lid a tessellated arrangement of opal, emerald, ruby, sapphire and pink tourmaline. $6,400; shop.aishabaker.com.
Maia Adams is a jewellery consultant and co-founder of Adorn Insight (adorninsight.com).