The combination of classic white diamonds with bright pops of colour rarely fails to delight and surprise – and is currently being used to provocative effect by a host of savvy jewellery designers. The bold approach is exemplified in Solange Azagury-Partridge’s pink and white Scribbles ring (price on request). Despite the inherent preciousness of the white gold and diamonds, the saturated neon-pink lacquer setting gives the piece a sense of fun. “The concept was one of pure irreverence, eschewing symmetry and instead expressing the beauty of random shapes and a joyful use of colour,” she says.
Also using neon this season is Melissa Kaye, who has updated bestselling designs such as the Lola diamond stacking rings ($2,850 each) in mouthwatering neon hues of pink, yellow and orange enamel – a material she says is “simultaneously retro, futuristic and very current. I think these pieces are in line with how people dress today: playful, not too serious.” Equally enjoyable is the flash of fire-engine-red enamel Nina Runsdorf has used to reinvent her signature Slice Diamonds designs (Phoenix Fan earrings, £64,000), while Nicole Carosella, co-founder of New York-based Sorellina, uses rhodium in tones of pink, mint green and navy to add a pop of unexpected colour to her diamond-studded Otto Ovale hoop earrings ($1,810).
With more than 150 years in the jewellery business, the Boghossian family knows a thing or two about staying relevant by flexing the codes of traditional craftsmanship. Its unusual combinations of materials and colours include a sinuous pair of earrings (£82,700) featuring baguette-cut diamonds alongside vibrant blue enamel “to give a contemporary look to the oriental motif”, says Albert Boghossian. But why use one colour when you can have them all, is what Brent Neale appears to be saying with her kaleidoscopic Moi et Toi ring (price on request). The rainbow of gems includes pink, yellow, orange and blue sapphires, as well as rubies and emeralds, and “makes serious jewellery fun and unexpected”.
Maia Adams is a jewellery consultant and co-founder of Adorn Insight (adorninsight.com).