Beauty in geometry: Ming Lampson’s bold jewellery collection

The London-based jeweller’s earring designs were inspired by the changing seasons

From top: Ming Lampson Sunburst earrings, £6,000, and Aqua Ice stud earrings, £48,000
From top: Ming Lampson Sunburst earrings, £6,000, and Aqua Ice stud earrings, £48,000

It seems appropriate that as I write I am looking out at budding trees, as winter finally turns into spring. What piqued my interest in London-based jeweller Ming Lampson’s Reverence for Nature collection was her ability to capture those fleeting moments as the seasons change. “I was thinking of ice melting in spring, sunlight in autumn,” says Lampson. “I have always been drawn to strong geometric shapes and patterns. I like to create jewellery that has an inherent boldness – that will make my clients feel powerful.”

Ming Lampson Frost Hoops earrings, £68,000
Ming Lampson Frost Hoops earrings, £68,000

A pair of 18ct-white-gold Frost Hoops earrings (£68,000) reflects Lampson’s intrinsic aesthetic. The delicate chain-like formation of baguette-set diamond shards in a continuous openwork pattern captures the weightlessness of frost. “The Aqua Ice flower stud earrings (£48,000) are inspired by snowflakes and plants covered in ice,” says Lampson. “I see the transparent aquamarine spears as petals.” Reducing nature to minimal geometric profiles sits at the heart of her collection. In addition to the outer silhouette profile, the centre of the earrings resembles the shape of a snowflake: “I wanted to capture a story of contradiction and opposites – the weight of ice on a flower and the lightness of a fallen snowflake.”

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The Ice Shard earrings (£45,000) convey the idea of ice melting – “cold, hard shards becoming liquid. The aquamarines are held by a half setting at the top of the stone as if they are melting and dripping from the ear,” says Lampson. “They are fragile before they are set, as their long, fine points can easily chip, but once they are in a frame they are much stronger, as if clothed in armour.”

Ming Lampson Ice Shard earrings, £45,000
Ming Lampson Ice Shard earrings, £45,000

Lampson’s angular Kite diamond-set ear cuff (£2,800) was designed to be worn high on the ear above the Ice Shard earrings to replicate the pattern and intersecting shapes. “For me, jewellery is sculpture,” she says. “An earring has to be beautiful from the side too, which is why all three sides visible to the eye are diamond-set.”

Ming Lampson Kite ear cuff, £2,800
Ming Lampson Kite ear cuff, £2,800

And with spring finally appearing, I couldn’t resist including the exquisite gold Sunburst earrings (£6,000). A symbol of hope, this pair of hoops harnesses the contrast of golden sun and spring shadow through the angled profile of each pointed “ray”.

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Juliet Hutton-Squire is a jewellery consultant and co-founder of Adorn Insight (adorninsight.com).

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