Over the 25 years that she has been head of design at Boodles, Rebecca Hawkins has quietly grown into a major talent in British jewellery. Her inspirations – which she channels in an oblique, slightly abstract way – have varied from raindrops to the movements of dancers, and in her new collection she draws on Britain’s landscapes as seen through the eyes of painters, photographers and illustrators.
The Poetry of Landscape features nine suites of jewellery (from £13,500) that evoke the shades of the British natural landscape through stones including fresh forest-green peridots and tourmalines, subtle misty-grey moonstones, soft-pink morganites, angel-skin opals and, in some cases, complex, multilayered lattices of finely worked white diamonds.
The painting of Gertrude Hermes was the source for the Waterlily earrings (price on request), which feature soft-pink stones and diamond raindrops, and contain elements of Hawkins’ signature Raindance collection, while the Trewidden collar (price on request), inspired by the English garden and its place within the landscape, suggests petals falling on water through pink opals and diamonds. The geometric outlines and tiny leaf shapes of the Malham Rock ring (price on request), meanwhile, suggest the delicate plants that grow in the inhospitable limestone pavements of Yorkshire.
The two most extraordinary suites evoke complete landscapes in diamonds and platinum. The pieces in Ancient Landscape (such as the cuff, price on request) are as undulating as the 1939 artwork on which they are based, Eric Ravilious’s The Vale of the White Horse, featuring the same rounded lines of the Downs along with standing stones and the hills’ chalk figures, all recreated in round brilliant and Ashoka cut diamonds. And the ancient tree clumps of Dorset, as seen in Paul Nash’s 1929 work Wood on the Downs, are unmistakable in the diamond cuff (price on request) of the same name.
Some pieces are one-offs, while the smaller earrings and rings are reproducible and can be made to order. To celebrate the collection, Boodles has also commissioned photographer Martin Morrell to capture the natural details that inspired the pieces for a beautiful art-print book. It captures the poetry of these landscapes as evocatively as the jewels themselves.