The Rosas family tradition of goldsmithing began in 1860 in Porto and is still going strong today. Father and daughter David and Luísa are the fourth- and fifth-generation links in the chain, and while David Rosas is well-known for his classic designs studded with diamonds and coloured gems, sold in his chain of boutiques across Portugal, trained architect Luísa is now making waves with her fascinatingly fluid gold interpretations of nature.
Working alongside her father, Luísa created her first designs in 2008. Her delightful debut collection, Be, sets the tone with organic forms inspired by cellular structures, building up layers of yellow-gold and diamond-decorated “cells” into alluringly textured rings (from €2,390), cuffs (from €7,920) and earrings (from €1,020). Her Skin range (from €4,630), too, explores texture; a sleek reversible pendant necklace (€5,890) and earrings (€4,630) undulate with overlapping gold sections that are polished and shiny on one side, satin and rough on the other.
Stepping out from the David Rosas umbrella in 2014, Luísa feels that her subsequent collections are more “assertive”. Essences, for example, is a striking series of five rings reinterpreting different textures found in nature: while Stone (€2,240) and Water (€2,390) are bold and chunky, Leaf (€1,790) is so fragile you can imagine it blowing in the wind.
However, it is Luísa’s latest launch, Tribe, that has brought her name to the fore. Also based on leaves – their density, their veins, their overlapping layers – these designs are inspired by the Portuguese tradition of filigree in structural yet stunningly light shapes. In particular, the large hoop earrings (€3,680) and collar necklace (€11,700) are both a triumph.
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