It may come as a surprise to some that PAD London is only a decade old this year. The chic decorative-arts fair, this year held in Berkeley Square from October 3 to 9, is now a firm fixture on the international collector’s calendar, alongside Frieze and Frieze Masters, just a paintbrush’s throw away in Regent’s Park.
The growing presence of jewellery and watch exhibitors typifies PAD’s broadening appeal: the number this year will nearly double to five, with Hemmerle and Suzanne Syz new to the line-up.
Hemmerle is known for mixing avant-garde materials and organic design, and here disc-shaped drop earrings come in gold, bronze, agate and horn, or in a more bedazzling swirl of diamonds, bronze and white gold (fourth picture, price on request). Suzanne Syz’s love of pop art – refined from sparring with the likes of Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat in 1980s New York – makes its way into her quirky enamel and silver Adrenaline pill cufflinks (£6,000, second picture) and psychedelic Hit the Bulls Eye earrings (£17,000). Syz’s first timepiece, the Her Ben self-winding watch ($48,000) with dual dial and stingray strap, is also on display.
Returning exhibitor Karry Berreby’s selection of jewellery watches includes space age-like Chopard creations (from €12,000) from the 1970s, alongside a contrasting white and yellow gold Bulgari Grec (€6,700) and classic 1980 Cartier Baignoire (€6,800) on a black alligator strap. Also keep an eye out for an unusual Ebel cuff design (€20,500, third picture) from 1975 with a lapis-lazuli dial, while Lalaounis’ sculptural gold rings (from €2,800) highlight this Parisian dealer’s unerring eye for jewellery.
Siegelson is another returnee, and this year comes bearing a selection of art-deco gems (from just over $50,000 to about $2m). A beautiful pearl-topped bangle in onyx, diamond and emerald (first picture) and a pair of Tutti Frutti clips with cabochon rubies circling a carved emerald leaf are both classic 1920-1930 Cartier. Meanwhile, a pair of Mercury wing clips designed by Fulco di Verdura for Coco Chanel in 1934 couldn’t look more modern.
Representing the artist-jewellery genre is Louisa Guinness, fresh from solo shows of Alexander Calder and Claude Lalanne (both with works represented). Her Niki de Saint Phalle pieces (€12,000-€95,000) contain all the whimsy and humour the French polymath was known for, such as brilliant enamel, 18ct green and rose gold Snake cufflinks, or the statement-making You Are My Bird necklace. Guinness will also show pieces (£1,200-£15,000) by Nic Fiddian Green, whose 2016 horse-head Dawn pendant, carved from striking blue chrysomelanite and gold, is a harbinger for where this exciting art-jewel form is headed.