The blue doors of Mandrakia and bluer waters of Tsigrado, the caves at Kleftiko and the sunsets from Skinopi: Milos. Apparently, if you know, you know. One woman who does – about this Greek island and all the other good ones – is Ileana von Hirsch of Five Star Greece. She has the keys to a gorgeous new up-styled syrma (a traditional two-storey fisherman’s house), which sleeps two, in the village of Klima. Beautiful handmade tiles cover the floors, a state-of-the-art kitchen nestles under the stairs, and a king bed awaits in the sleek skylit loft (fivestargreece.com; from €320).