Eight generations of the aristocratic Tasca d’Almerita family have made wine at Regaleali (tascadalmerita.it; from €350 half board), their 1,000-acre estate in the severe, hilly interior of Sicily. The estate is quite famous, but it’s a semi-secret that when the Tascas aren’t in residence at Case Grandi – the main compound, its courtyard dense with climbing roses and hydrangeas, its foundations dating back to around the 13th century – they quietly open it to paying guests.
You can spend hours exploring the vineyards and woods on foot, on horseback or, as I did, in a vintage Land Cruiser. You can, of course, taste the many excellent wines. Or you can just sit and contemplate the singular landscape: a patchwork of olives and cypresses, rolling wheat and lush vines, extending to where the ancient land meets the boundless sky.