Ah, Devi Garh. Or as it’s now known, Raas Devigarh (raasdevigarh.com; from £265), the white fort outside Udaipur that came under the aegis of Raas hotels (of the similarly lovely Raas Jodhpur) last summer.
Even the most jaded of my Indophile acquaintances admits to still experiencing a little flutter when this icon of style, glowing subtly on its ridge above the tranquil village of Delwara, comes into view from the road. Semiprecious stones and 200-year-old Sanskrit lettering adorning the walls; bathtubs carved from single slabs of sparkling marble; gazebos wreathed in bougainvillea, overlooking the chiaroscuro Aravalli hills: it’s a fever dream of Rajasthan made real.
The Raas team’s improvements – a quiet revisiting of the decor in the public spaces, an upgrading of the spa (with the help of Denise Leicester and her brilliant organic ILA line) – quietly and masterfully enhance that quintessential beauty.