In 2013 Brunello Cucinelli acquired esteemed tailors d’Avenza and opened a tailoring school in Solomeo, Umbria. Now the first batch of students is being put to work as the Cucinelli empire continues to grow. The brand has significantly expanded its Mayfair shop, dedicating the grand new upstairs entirely to menswear. When I visited, several pieces caught my eye. A navy wool-canvas/silk redingote (£1,430, pictured) has a crisp finish and cut and feels dynamic, as does a wool/silk/mohair double-breasted version (£1,610), which is like a long blazer. Particularly natty is a camel cotton/silk tailored mac with swept-back peak lapels (£1,260), while a chocolate-brown silk/cotton-drill double-breasted coat (£1,610) works as well with tailoring as it does over casual clothes. But then this is Cucinelli’s world, which specialises in mixing formality with a more relaxed feel.