Nine trends from the autumn/winter 2020 men’s collections

From Pitti Uomo to Paris, Tom Stubbs reports from the front line

Runway looks from (left to right) Prada, Givenchy, Fendi and Louis Vuitton
Runway looks from (left to right) Prada, Givenchy, Fendi and Louis Vuitton

New corduroy

Corduroy shows no signs of waning – in fact, designers continue to develop the fabric in new ways. There was washed corduroy at The Gigi, jumbo cord suits at Brunello Cucinelli and two-piece suits with matching coats at Paul Smith. What’s more, it’s got cinematic endorsement too: Massimo Alba has made a two-piece cord suit for Bond’s No Time To Die, while Margaret Howell has issued an updated version of Jack Nicholson’s cord jacket from The Shining.

Backstage at Dunhill’s a/w 2020 show
Backstage at Dunhill’s a/w 2020 show

Leather coats and macs

Designers are creating ultra-refined, tailored leather outerwear – see Givenchy’s trench coats, Dunhill’s voluminous macs and long, hooded styles at Fendi, among others.

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Reworked ties

Neckties, which have been taboo in fashion circles for years, are back. They have been reworked though, through styling and fabrication. At Louis Vuitton and E Tautz they were tucked into trousers; at Ermenegildo Zegna, they were loosely knotted; while Edward Crutchley’s checked versions both matched and clashed with the jackets.

Backstage at Louis Vuitton’s a/w 2020 runway show
Backstage at Louis Vuitton’s a/w 2020 runway show

Interpretations of cable knits

Cable-knit sweaters have been imagined in new, dramatic ways – the likes of Dolce & Gabbana blew the stitch up to extreme proportions, while Loewe added jewels at the shoulders and cuffs. Notable mentions also include Pringle of Scotland, John Smedley and Tod’s.

Runway looks from (left to right) Loewe, Dolce & Gabbana, Berluti and Ferragamo
Runway looks from (left to right) Loewe, Dolce & Gabbana, Berluti and Ferragamo

Hiking boots

Mountain boots are even bigger on the agenda for next season. Santoni took the literal route with luxe, tried-and-true vintage hiking boots; Crockett & Jones added a sniff of action with open-loop eyelets; while Tod’s and Jimmy Choo created proper sporty versions.

A look from Dolce & Gabbana’s a/w 2020 runway show
A look from Dolce & Gabbana’s a/w 2020 runway show

Oversized houndstooth

Trad houndstooth has been reimagined in bold ways (wolfstooth, if you will). Kiton has a cashmere and vicuña jersey take on the pattern; Berluti has created a leather jacket and bucket hat featuring a giant black and tan check; while The Gigi took velvet and printed it with a bold houndstooth.

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Leather and suede shirts

Suede and leather shirts were major news. There were plush versions at Trussardi; trad and gentleman driver types at Ralph Lauren and Brioni; while others were rugged and fit for hunting, à la one at Brunello Cucinelli.

Bold peacoats

Designers have reimagined the classic peacoat. Sealup has made some interesting, slightly longer versions with a removable cloud-like hood; Brunello Cucinelli has made corduroy styles; while Ralph Lauren has gone super-trad. Corneliani has gone pale – and unusually urbane – in luxe off-white.

Buckled shoes

Monkstraps and other buckled shoes are back for autumn/winter. John Lobb has reworked one of its vintage styles, while Dunhill has made strapped brothel creepers look contemporary.

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