“The dark-green linen was a bit of a sartorial risk”

Gieves & Hawkes’ master tailor cuts an ultra-sharp bespoke suit for our menswear blogger

Simon Crompton in his bespoke Gieves & Hawkes suit, from £5,300
Simon Crompton in his bespoke Gieves & Hawkes suit, from £5,300 | Image: Milad Abedi

Davide Taub has garnered something of a cult following in recent years. The head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes’ bespoke department is known for his sharp style – both in terms of cut and overall aesthetic – which is delivered with distinct flair downstairs at No 1 Savile Row. Having worked with Taub on several pieces over the years, I count myself among his growing number of admirers – but he hadn’t cut a suit for me until recently, when he came up with an exceptional linen number. 

Crompton’s suit was made by Gieves & Hawkes’ renowned head cutter, Davide Taub
Crompton’s suit was made by Gieves & Hawkes’ renowned head cutter, Davide Taub | Image: Milad Abedi

The muted, dark-green fabric was a bit of a sartorial risk: I had never worn anything like it before, let alone seen it on anyone else. But I’m completely taken with the result. The colour is unusual yet subtle. Indoors, it looks more like a dusty black; outdoors, it’s definitely green and looks good with other dark accessories, such as a black grenadine tie and black cordovan loafers. In terms of the cut, it has a traditional Savile Row silhouette: smart but not corporate – perhaps even a little rock ’n’ roll. 

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Throughout the bespoke process (from £5,300) I trusted Taub completely, and made only occasional suggestions about the buttoning point on the jacket or the width of the trousers (which are on the slim side). I was keen to get his input on the style as well as the fit. This all led to a jacket with a very lightly padded shoulder: there’s just a touch more bulk in the sleeve head to give the shoulder line some lift. It also has a relatively high buttoning point, with fairly wide, slightly bellied lapels and a sharp notch. 

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The finish of the suit is extremely fine, from the beautiful buttonholes to the jacket cloth running all round – and reinforcing – the in-breast pockets. It’s pleasing to have personal, physical evidence that Taub’s growing reputation is well deserved. Besuited on the streets of Mayfair, I’m passing his name on to everyone who asks.

Simon Crompton is an author and journalist and the founder of a leading website on luxury and bespoke menswear, PermanentStyle.com, which receives over a million visitors every year. He is the author of several books including The Finest Menswear in the World (Thames & Hudson). @permanentstylelondon.

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