Michael Browne – who worked at Chittleborough & Morgan on Savile Row before opening his own operation on Berkeley Square – describes his pieces as couture rather than bespoke. “Traditional bespoke is great, but it’s normally starting from a very specific idea of style or house cut,” says Browne. He begins with more of a blank slate. There are no avant-garde details, as is often seen in the couture shows, but the way each coat is made – its structure, line and proportions – varies considerably.
An example is what Browne calls the “body coat” (from £7,250) – it’s made to fit close to the body, more like a long jacket than a traditional coat, with sharp shoulders and sweeping lines. It is intended to be shrugged on in warmer weather, worn with a shirt and close-cut trousers. “This way of working takes longer, but the relationship is more personal and the clothing more individual,” says Browne. The house’s standard turnaround time is about six months.