Stone Island, which is renowned for its fabric innovation, has replaced the denim in its collections with a Panama-weave cotton hemp. Creative director Carlo Rivetti says the material, called Panama Placcato, is an evolution of a hemp the company used in the early ’80s. This season it can be seen in a workwear range inspired by archive pieces, including the tapered Re-T jeans (£215) and matching jacket (£350) in slate grey. There are also overalls (£350) in traditional indigo. The fabric is coated with a pigmented resin and washed repeatedly at high temperatures to give it body, and is designed to develop a marbled quality over time.