Four standout designers of contemporary jewellery for men

From contemporary-art-cool brooches to bespoke cameos

Clockwise from top: Giovanni Corvaja enamel Circular brooch £52,200. Rebus 18ct-yellow-gold signet ring, from £1,400. Rhodium, sardonyx and 10ct-black-diamond Poison cameo ring, £1,780
Clockwise from top: Giovanni Corvaja enamel Circular brooch £52,200. Rebus 18ct-yellow-gold signet ring, from £1,400. Rhodium, sardonyx and 10ct-black-diamond Poison cameo ring, £1,780

Signet rings: REBUS

Gold-engraver/jeweller Emmet Smith founded Rebus in 2006 in a modest studio above his Leather Lane workshop. With the signet ring in vogue, Rebus now has a grand new salon just a few doors away, offering bespoke engraved rings in silver, yellow, rose or white gold and platinum, with the option of semiprecious stones such as agates or carnelians. Although the family crest is still sought after, Smith says many prefer to have their initials, monogram or a symbol that relates to a significant part of their life. The Oxford oval shape is the most popular and each ring, which takes about two months to make, comes with a wax impression and wax taper to make the seals, with prices for an 18ct-yellow-gold ring costing from £1,400. rebussignetrings.co.uk. AVRIL GROOM

Roman and Williams 20ct-gold and ruby ring, $5,900 at Betroth
Roman and Williams 20ct-gold and ruby ring, $5,900 at Betroth

Brooches and pins: GIOVANNI CORVAJA

“Art should not be limited to the home; a beautiful brooch can enliven a classic dinner jacket, converting it instantly to red‑carpet glamour,” says Italian artist-goldsmith Giovanni Corvaja, who is represented by Adrian Sassoon, a dealer in contemporary art and antique porcelain. “I enjoy working with metals of different colours to create movement, transparency and lightness in a piece that can look fabulous on a man.” Corvaja’s masterful abstract compositions (Circular brooch, £52,200) of enamel and impossibly fine threads of gold, platinum, silver and other metals make just the right statement, combining contemporary conceptual art with awe-inspiring technique. At Adrian Sassoon, 14 Rutland Gate, London SW7 (020-7581 9888; adriansassoon.com). VIVIENNE BECKER

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Cool cameos: AMEDEO

Amedeo Scognamiglio is an Italian sixth-generation cameo carver who combines the same local materials and traditions as his forebears, with utterly contemporary designs. His cameos are emblazoned with an electric range of motifs – from skulls and serpents, spiders and monkeys (for example, the sardonyx Poison cameo ring with 10ct black diamonds on a rhodium setting, £1,780) to more classical subjects such as angels and muses. His bespoke business (pieces from £3,200) is attracting a growing clientele who want a unique cameo of their home, children, pet or initials, which are embellished with skulls, crowns or flowers. Materials range from black lava to turquoise to marble, but Scognamiglio favours traditional white sardonyx shell on a dark background for its 3D appeal. The process takes six to eight weeks, with clients shown the near-finished cameo before completion – a chance not only to make necessary adjustments but also to decide how to best set the piece. amedeo.shop. MING LIU

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Wedding rings: BETROTH

New York-based artist Derrick Cruz created the Betroth online-only store with a very specific intention: to bring together designers and artists to each create their highly personal vision of an engagement or wedding ring. Inspirations for Cruz’s own Elements collection range from brutalist architecture to the growing tendrils of climbing plants. Each “element” features options for engagement and wedding bands. Water III ($650) is a pared-back, ridged band “inspired by the grill of a 1930s Bugatti”; Roman and Williams, the superstar New York-based interior and product-design studio, have designed two sculptural rings very much with a forged-by-hand feel in 20ct gold (men’s, $5,900), featuring a central rectangle that appears not so much bevelled as draped like velvet into the band, with triangular geometric shapes at the side and inset rubies. Expect more to follow. betroth.me MARK C O’FLAHERTY

 

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