The Armoury’s impressive selection of tailored trousers

The menswear firm’s online store carries well-crafted men’s trousers from labels rarely found elsewhere

The Armoury x Ring Jacket cotton Model A trousers, $375
The Armoury x Ring Jacket cotton Model A trousers, $375

Buying clothes online can be a risky affair – sizing can be variable and it’s hard to judge which cut will actually work from a picture. However, once you’ve nailed down a brand that works for you, e-commerce and the ease of repeat orders truly come into their own.

From left: The Armoury x Pommella Napoli flannel PA1 trousers, $800, moleskin AUS1 trousers, $800, and flannel Side Tab trousers, $800
From left: The Armoury x Pommella Napoli flannel PA1 trousers, $800, moleskin AUS1 trousers, $800, and flannel Side Tab trousers, $800

If there’s one area this particularly applies to, it’s trousers. And boutique menswear store The Armoury carries more high-end tailored trousers than almost anyone, including labels rarely found elsewhere, such as bespoke maker Osaku, Pommella Napoli, Ring Jacket (an Italian-influenced brand made in Osaka) and Italian label Rota. For those wanting to find that perfect fit online, here’s how they break down by price, make and cut.

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The brands vary most obviously by price, with Pommella Napoli trousers the most expensive at around $800-$850 a pair, Osaku the next level down at $495-$550, Rota at $465-$495 and Ring Jacket at the $350-$400 mark.

The Armoury x Pommella Napoli flannel PA1 trousers, $800
The Armoury x Pommella Napoli flannel PA1 trousers, $800

Pommella’s higher price is basically down to the hand-work involved. These are bespoke-level trousers for those who want the finish of bespoke, though without the fitting element. The buttonholes are hand-sewn, as is the skirt on the inside of the waistband, and there is visible pick stitching around the edges. Personally, I’d prioritise fit over finishing, but I know there are those who love that level of finish and don’t want to wait for trunk shows and fittings.

From left: The Armoury x Osaku Pleated trousers, $550, and Flat-Front trousers, $495
From left: The Armoury x Osaku Pleated trousers, $550, and Flat-Front trousers, $495

Osaku is my favourite trouser of the four. It’s primarily a bespoke maker but creates ready-to-wear for The Armoury. It offers a precise, clean finish and uses fine materials, including the shirting on the inside of the waistband. The leg line is similar to Pommella – slightly tapered – but pretty much everything else is different: a mid-rise, a thin waistband and belt loops or side adjusters for the fastening.

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The other two labels, Rota and Ring Jacket, aren’t that different in make, though Rota is a little more expensive. The fits do vary, however. Rota is a fairly standard modern cut, perhaps best described as mid-rise. Ring Jacket, on the other hand, is carried in a Model A cut developed exclusively with The Armoury and, like the Pommella trouser, is rather higher in the rise. Rota is also slimmer in the leg, and this is something I struggle with in terms of its fit. Of the two, therefore, I’d suggest more tailored dressers err towards Ring Jacket. Its trousers also come in a greater range of materials, including cottons, flannels and corduroy.

Simon Crompton is a men’s style writer and consultant. He is the founder of the award-winning website Permanent Style and author of Le Snob Guide to Tailoring (Hardie Grant Books, £8.99) and The Finest Menswear in the World (Thames & Hudson, £24.95). To read more of his columns, click here.

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