I’ve had a particular fondness for Dunhill since I visited its leather workshops in Walthamstow for my book Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands. So I was pleased to see the new collections under creative director Mark Weston taken in an interesting direction, stretching from the conservative to the experimental.
Take leather outerwear. Dunhill has always been top notch for quality here, but designs have typically been fairly traditional. Now there is much more of a range. So at one end of the scale there are thoughtfully executed navy suede and merino bomber jackets (from £1,095), while at the other are more unusual touches, such as a striking deep-red biker jacket (£2,195) or the shearling track jacket (£2,595). This latter piece is interesting in that it makes lamb shearling look like sportswear. It’s subtle, however, more a question of texture than anything else.
Finally, there are crazy unique conceptions. At the Bourdon House flagship in Mayfair, I tried on a “racing smock” in burgundy leather (£3,495) – basically a square shape with a funnel neck and a zip running up one side. I would never wear it. But part of me wishes I was the kind of person that would.
There really is something for everyone here – it’s worth a look, particularly at Bourdon House, which has the greatest range.
Simon Crompton is a men’s style writer and consultant. He is the founder of the award-winning website Permanent Style and author of Le Snob Guide to Tailoring (Hardie Grant Books, £8.99) and The Finest Menswear in the World (Thames & Hudson, £24.95). To read more of his columns, click here.