In August I found myself in St Moritz, and my first trip to the alpine resort in summer was an altogether new experience. I sailed on the Bad and took the cable car to Muottas Muragl. I visited the Art Masters fair – a celebration of Italian contemporary art, now in its eighth year – and went to the vintage-car rally Passione Engadina, which this year paid homage to Ferrari. These new discoveries have enticed me to return next summer, but it is Dal Mulin that I hope to visit sooner.
This intimate 40-seater restaurant (first picture) was opened by husband-and-wife team Danijel and Kathrin Krasnic in the centre of town last December. With its charming family feel and cosy alpine interiors (oak tables, mounted taxidermy, bottles of schnapps lining the bar), Dal Mulin has a loyal local following. For many the lure is Danijel, who in 2010 was named Sommelier of the Year at nearby haunt Talvo, in the sleepy village of Champfèr.
The food at Dal Mulin is truly outstanding. My tuna, avocado and grapefruit starter (second picture) was wonderfully fresh, and just as delicious as the herb brie, pear and walnut salad that some of our party ordered. The mains of pot au feu of codfish with fregola sarda (third picture) and summer venison with semolina dumplings both looked – and tasted – seasonally spot-on, while I opted for the evening’s special: braised veal cheeks with roasted vegetables and tomato purée. Cooked for three-and-a-half hours and deglazed with red wine, it was excellent. This was all paired with a bottle of the 2012 Fläscher Pinor Noir Grond from Andrea Davaz – a local red that garnered a Wine Spectator gong this year – and rounded off with two scoops of homemade ice cream, served on a bed of devilishly moreish butter, salt and sugar crumble.
If Dal Mulin has remained, so far, largely a secret among locals, word is spreading fast – it has just received Switzerland’s Gault Millau award, and New Year’s Eve has already been booked up by a single party. So for those heading to St Moritz this winter, my advice is to call and reserve pronto. Dal Mulin will certainly be one of the hottest tables in town.