Personally recommended shops and restaurants in Madrid

Where to find everything from traditional linens to contemporary jewellery and fabulous furniture – and refreshments along the way

Lorenzo Castillo loves the antiques shops and restaurants of El Rastro
Lorenzo Castillo loves the antiques shops and restaurants of El Rastro | Image: Gianfranco Tripodo

Lorenzo Castillo, interior designer and antiquarian If I could only shop in one part of the city, I’d absolutely choose El Rastro because it has the best antiques shops and I also love the restaurants, such as Casa Julián de Tolosa. When I’m there I hunt for French decorative arts and furniture at Isabel Martínez, and 20th-century objects at El Transformista, while Berenis is great for 18th-century Spanish pieces. Another favourite is the Grassy jewellery store, which has a beautiful mix of antique clocks and contemporary jewels, and I have a pair of 17th-century Spanish tortoiseshell and ebony cabinets from Goya Subastas – they are important antiques but modern in their simplicity and a robust design at the same time. Berenis, Ribera de Curtidores 29 (+34915-399 982; berenis.net). Casa Julián de Tolosa, Cava Baja 18 (+34913-658 210; juliandetolosa.com). El Transformista, Mira el Río Baja 16-18 (+34650-470 579; eltransformista.com). Isabel Martínez, Ribera de Curtidores 29 (+34628-369 713; isabelmartinezantiguedades.blogspot.com.es). Goya Subastas, Montesa 31 (+34914-315 311; goyasubastas.com). Grassy, Gran Vía 1 (+34915-321 007; grassy.es).

Pilar Ordovas enjoys visiting Pez, a store full of clothes by emerging designers
Pilar Ordovas enjoys visiting Pez, a store full of clothes by emerging designers
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Pilar Ordovas, gallerist Las Salesas is a very eclectic area for shopping. You can find everything, from my favourite flower shop, Margarita Se Llama Mi Amor, where they create the most unusual wildflower arrangements, to Pez and Mott – two stores full of clothes by emerging designers that you are unlikely to see elsewhere. After a bit of shopping, I’ll go to Mamá Framboise for bocadillos and delicious, artisanal pastries. Mamá Framboise, Calle Fernando VI 23 (+3491-391 4364; mamaframboise.com). Margarita Se Llama Mi Amor, Calle Fernando VI 9 (+3491-310 0926; margaritasellamamiamor.com). Mott, Calle del Barquillo 31 (+3491-308 1280). Pez, Calle de Regueros 15 (+3491-310 6677; pez-pez.es).

Ivorypress art and design bookshop is a favourite of JW Anderson
Ivorypress art and design bookshop is a favourite of JW Anderson | Image: Manolo Yllera
Lauren Santo Domingo frequents Lorenzo Castillo’s store
Lauren Santo Domingo frequents Lorenzo Castillo’s store

JW Anderson, creative director of Loewe I love the tiny bookstores in the lanes behind El Rastro, and I also regularly visit Ivorypress, a wonderful art and design bookshop owned by Norman Foster’s Spanish wife Elena. It has a great gallery space and its own publishing house too. I find Tiempos Modernos inspiring for its choice of mid-20th-century furniture, and Matarranz, a very idiosyncratic place selling bed linen made by the old ladies who run it. They make sheets to order and there are cashmere and lambswool blankets as well. I also recommend a walk down Calle de Serrano, a beautifully restored 19th-century street with avenues of trees and wide pavements. It is becoming home to the big luxury brands, but in between you’ll get a feel for the character of Spanish retail, from thriving, well-priced fashion chains you’ve never heard of to beautiful old-fashioned artisan chocolatiers. El Rastro, Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores (+34915-298 210). Ivorypress, Calle del Comandante Zorita 46-48 (+34914-490 961; ivorypress.com). Matarranz, Calle de Serrano 30 (+34915-761 567; matarranzropadecasa.com). Tiempos Modernos, Calle Arrieta 17 (+34915-428 594; tiempos-modernos.com).

Josep Font highlights Cacto-Cacto, which stocks cacti of all kinds
Josep Font highlights Cacto-Cacto, which stocks cacti of all kinds
Do Design is a concept store with a minimalist Scandi aesthetic
Do Design is a concept store with a minimalist Scandi aesthetic

Lauren Santo Domingo, co-founder of Moda Operandi Madrid is one of my favourite places, particularly the area surrounding El Retiro, the city’s answer to Central Park. I adore shopping for antiques and always find interesting pieces at Lorenzo Castillo – and then it’s off to Casa Lucio, a favourite for croquettes, garlic prawns and the best jamón serrano. Casa Lucio, Calle Cava Baja 35 (+3491-365 3252; casalucio.es). Lorenzo Castillo, Calle Cañizares 7 (+34914-201 991; lorenzocastillo.org).

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Josep Font, creative director of Delpozo For shopping, the area around Calle de Fernando VI is my favourite place in the world. The Cacto-Cacto store is a fun place for cacti of all kinds, while Do Design is a great concept store with a minimalist Scandi aesthetic that also has a lovely café to stop in. Cacto-Cacto, Calle de Fernando VI 7 (+3491-310 3884). Do Design, Calle de Fernando VI 13 (+3491-310 6217; dodesign.es).

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