French-meets-Brazilian cuisine in Paris

Bistro Paradis is a flavoursome Right Bank find

Sea bass carpaccio with passionfruit vinaigrette, acerola purée and sesame croutons
Sea bass carpaccio with passionfruit vinaigrette, acerola purée and sesame croutons

Rue de Paradis is a historic and multicultural slice of Paris. Dotted with boutiques and bars as well as the Indian consulate, this once gritty Right Bank neighbourhood is fast becoming a gastronomic ghetto. At number 55, Bistro Paradis is a tasty partnership between Yohann Dhin from Toulouse and Brazilian chef Alexandre Furtado, who I met when he was with Alain Ducasse’s team at The Dorchester, London. It was while working at Parisian/Brazilian restaurant Le Pario, however, that Furtado met Dhin, a former banker turned mâitre d’hôtel who mixes an excellent Caipirinha of lime, sugar, ice and artisanal cachaça spirit.

Bistro Paradis on Paris’s Right Bank
Bistro Paradis on Paris’s Right Bank

The couple’s bijou space seats just 20 and has been given a minimal refit by Kristian Gavoille (ex-Philippe Starck): original hexagonal floor tiles paired with a “zinc-style” bar and a tiny semi-open kitchen where Furtado creates his “cuisine bistronomique”. “I always add a touch of Brazil to my dishes,” he says, “although my cooking is the neoclassic French style I learnt from my mentors.” The result is five starters, five mains and five desserts (lunch menus cost €18-€23; evening menus €30-€54), using ingredients such as coconut, guava, mango, açaí berries and exotic flowers as well as farofa – a flour made from the starchy South American root vegetable manioc.

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To begin, there’s foie-gras with guava jelly and gingerbread, or sea bass carpaccio with passionfruit vinaigrette, acerola purée and sesame croutons (first picture). Mains include the signature cabillaud (cod) moqueca style – a Brazilian recipe of fish stewed in coconut milk, tomatoes, onions, garlic and coriander – and thyme-roasted quail with a side of basmati rice spiked with Parma ham. To finish, pudim (third picture) is a glossy yellow dessert made with eggs, sugar and coconut milk, or there’s moist chocolate cake with passionfruit cream and mango coulis.

The glossy yellow dessert Pudim 
The glossy yellow dessert Pudim 

The wines are French – perhaps a Mâcon Viré-Clessé white burgundy 2014 from Domaine Guillemot-Michel (€59) or a red Crozes Hermitage Domaine Yann Chave 2014 (€42; €8 per glass) – while the delicious bread comes from Monsieur Fernand’s bakery on Rue d’Hauteville around the corner. I’d recommend a visit to stock up before catching the Eurostar.

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