Couture

A compelling coterie of designers is expanding the circle of couture houses, reimagining the genre for the modern age and appealing to a new generation of clients. Lucia van der Post reports

The fabric remains a star of the fashion house’s contemporary collections, nudging prices for vintage pieces higher and higher, says Avril Groom

Every swish of this season’s most head-turning gowns exudes unbridled glamour. Location Villa le Rose, Florence. Jewellery by Bulgari. Styling by Damian Foxe. Photography by Andrew Yee

Made-to-order couture pieces from a rising London-based designer

One-of-a-kind pieces and little-known lines from A-list designers make this North Carolina fashion boutique a true Southern belle

As owner, CEO and creative director of a fast-growing brand, Giambattista Valli is a rarity in the fashion world. As he launches a new fashion line, he talks to Harriet Quick about “flower explosion” party dresses and his need to stamp his mark on every aspect of the business. Portrait by Stephane Remael

An under-the-radar couturier specialising in thrillingly cut embellished eveningwear

Since 2008, Valentino’s new creative directors have attracted a younger clientele while respecting its heritage – to the tune of doubled revenues. Vanessa Friedman meets the duo weaving glamorous understatement with decoration

A perfectly petite Marylebone boutique carries a kaleidoscopic cache of one-off finds from fashion’s golden ages

Savvy fashion houses are offering a new, highly personalised service fusing couture-style crafts with ready to wear. Avril Groom raises the curtain on prêt à couture

Emerge from the wintery gloaming in efflorescent splendour, as designers cultivate an unexpected abundance of floral embroidery, appliqué and print. Photography and styling by Damian Foxe

Taking as their cue history’s most theatrical fashions, this season’s shoes are replete with extravagant fabrics and bejewelled details

Royal Ascot’s new dress code allows plenty of rein to make an extravagant statement. Photography and styling by Damian Foxe.

A high-flying clientele, but down-to-earth prices

All is set fair when the captain’s wearing haute couture – with braiding, brass, buttons, armour and epaulette details. Ahoy, me hauties! Styling by Damian Foxe.

Couture or ready-to-wear, these shoes are divine

In 1947 Christian Dior changed the direction of fashion with a dramatic new silhouette. As part of How To Spend It’s 15th anniversary celebrations, John Galliano and the House of Dior collaborated with style editor Damian Foxe to showcase its impact on fashion today.

The owner of this discreet Paris boutique has an obsessive’s eye for mid-century clothes and jewellery.