Couture

More than 60 years since its creation, the Chanel jacket still looks totally modern. Alice Cavanagh finds out why. Portraits by Joachim Mueller-Ruchholtz

Come for the luxe, calme et volupté; leave with a head‑swivelling gown. Jean Grogan on a Parisian paean to glamorous dressing

Dolce and Gabbana are high-jewellery anarchists. Carol Woolton admires their non-conformist cool

A cocktail of 19 vintage-inspired gowns and 99 futuristic gems marks Victoire de Castellane’s two brilliantly disruptive decades as head of Dior Fine Jewellery. By Vivienne Becker. Photography by Brigitte Niedermair

Before he died, the photographer persuaded Dior to shoot 70 years of couture, street-style, in New York. Beatrice Hodgkin has a first look

This season’s haute couture gowns are a vision of tulle, organza and gauze. Photography by Damian Foxe. Styling by Elad Bitton. Jewellery by Van Cleef & Arpels

Assouline’s new tome, Chanel: The Impossible Collection, is “an extravagant romp through the greatest hits of one of the most evocative Parisian brands”

Fashion entrepreneur and philanthropist Wendy Yu is part of a new generation of couture clients. But she still loves the romance of a ruffle. Portraits by Alex Cretey Systermans

Gender-fluid attitudes are making everything – from lingerie to lipstick – more exciting. Alexander Fury examines the new extremes in femininity

Aigana Gali weaves personal stories into her statement-making coats and shirts 

All proceeds raised will support the Franca Sozzani Fund for Preventive Genomics (set up by her son) at Harvard University

Iris van Herpen’s ethereal creations are winning the cerebral designer a devoted international following and a place in the pantheon of radical couturiers. Lucia van der Post reports. Portrait by Jean-Baptiste Mondino

A compelling coterie of designers is expanding the circle of couture houses, reimagining the genre for the modern age and appealing to a new generation of clients. Lucia van der Post reports

The fabric remains a star of the fashion house’s contemporary collections, nudging prices for vintage pieces higher and higher, says Avril Groom

Every swish of this season’s most head-turning gowns exudes unbridled glamour. Location Villa le Rose, Florence. Jewellery by Bulgari. Styling by Damian Foxe. Photography by Andrew Yee

Made-to-order couture pieces from a rising London-based designer

One-of-a-kind pieces and little-known lines from A-list designers make this North Carolina fashion boutique a true Southern belle

As owner, CEO and creative director of a fast-growing brand, Giambattista Valli is a rarity in the fashion world. As he launches a new fashion line, he talks to Harriet Quick about “flower explosion” party dresses and his need to stamp his mark on every aspect of the business. Portrait by Stephane Remael