November 02 2009
Lucia van der Post
Venice, as all its fans know, is a bewildering maze of tiny alleyways and then the huge tourist-swamped set-piece sights. Head off, though, to the Castello district, near the Campo de Santa Maria Formosa, and there’s a tiny shop that seems to me to sell some of the most interesting jewellery in Venice – at the very least a change from all those Murano glass necklaces and pencils.
It specialises in vintage costume jewellery and what I like best is that you can find those wonderful old Venetian glass and ceramic trading beads as well as an ever-changing selection of Bakelite jewellery – gorgeous brooches, earrings, necklaces. I bought a big circular mustard-yellow brooch with an old piece of blue glass set in a square silver filigree frame for €35 (pictured), and there are lots more just as desirable. There are also old lamps and vases and other small objects like powder compacts, evening bags and the like.