November 24 2012
While Jade Jagger and
her hippie-deluxe lifestyle are often the subject of style and party pages, it
is easy to overlook her status as a well-respected jewellery designer. Fairly
early in her career she was employed to bring an edge of quirky design and
gilded London youth to establishment jewellers Garrard. What she learnt there about
precious stones and metals made a strong impression and has stood her in good
stead for developing her own brand.
As she matures, her handwriting increasingly displays a distinct style that
mixes boho chic with rock-chick elements such as skulls or arrows. She also
employs the traditional techniques of Jaipur, India’s jewellery craft centre,
where she spends a lot of time and has a permanent team. In recent collections
Jagger has been working with large, Indian-sourced precious and semi-precious stones set in
gold to make spectacular cocktail rings, and the production part of her range
has been a regular among the fine-jewellery showcases at Joseph’s Brompton
Now she has moved the gem and design content up a notch, working with large slices of ruby, emerald and sapphire, together with pavé diamonds, to create a series of one-off pieces that have just arrived in store. She has not used the clear, deep stones that are normally cut into great gems; hers are often milky and have inclusions, but they possess the advantages of great character and attractive prices. The colours and imperfections suit the organic shapes she prefers, and contrast with the tiny diamonds around them and the yellow or blackened gold settings. Jagger is also working with gem beads (including pretty but less exalted stones such as labradorite) for tasselled necklaces featuring tiny, brown diamond-set “disco balls”, and multi-strand bracelets. Prices range from £700 to over £13,000, and the styles can be made to order with different stones.
First picture: gold Hex earrings with rubies and diamonds, £8,575. Second picture: white gold Skull cocktail ring with aquamarine, diamonds and sapphires, £13,680. Third picture: white gold Skull earrings with aquamarine, diamonds and sapphires, £13,200.