December 14 2012
Nothing confirms Miu Miu’s emergence as a fully fledged, grown-up brand more than
the arrival of sumptuous tie-dyed furs this week at its New Bond Street flagship
and Harrods. It began as Prada’s more accessibly priced, quirkier minded “younger sister” range, called after Miuccia Prada’s childhood
nickname. However, for several years now, while it has kept the quirks and to some
extent the youthful outlook, it has also upgraded its fabrics, details and
finish to be the equal of the senior range.
As far as idiosyncracies go, the mink stoles (first picture), coats (second picture) and short jackets (third picture) shown as part of the summer catwalk
show seem fairly extreme, especially when paired with denim, artfully cut with
1950s-style elegance in a typical act of Miuccia subversion. But at The Miu
Miu – a three-day, invitation-only pop-up women’s club that the brand very
successfully ran at the old Café Royal (a venue about to re-emerge as London’s
latest smart hotel) – all became clear. A couple of stoles on display in the
boutique there revealed that they were an early release, to be worn with jeans
or a satin cocktail frock during the festive season.
As the mink is decorated with an experimental tie-dye technique, each piece is subtly different from the rest, though there appear to be cross-references to the single floral motifs that feature in the Prada spring collection. The garments are all satin lined, and prices range from £3,050 for a stole to around £30,000 for a full-scale coat. There may be no price resistance, but as the company explains, at this level even it buys only in very limited quantities. After all, with such precious pieces, no owner wants to see another being worn.