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Important jewels go under the hammer in New York

Sotheby’s first jewellery auction of the season is a humdinger

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Important jewels go under the hammer in New York

September 20 2011
Sibéal Pounder

It’s one of Cartier’s rarest art deco designs, but the Tutti Frutti aesthetic made famous by the likes of socialite Daisy Fellowes (who commissioned a necklace in the Tutti Frutti style in 1936) is taking centre stage once more in Sotheby’s first jewellery auction of the season, titled Important Jewels, taking place on Tuesday September 20.

The piece in question, a Cartier bracelet with platinum openwork foliate band featuring carved stones and European-cut and single-cut diamonds (second picture), weighs 7.00 carats and uses the Tutti Frutti signature of coloured stones carved into leafy shapes with cabochons and ribbed beads – a technique inspired by Indian tradition (estimate of $200,000-$300,000).

Other lot highlights include a David Webb cultured pearl and diamond bangle on a platinum frame (first picture; with an estimate of $30,000-$50,000), and a Tiffany & Co Burmese ruby and diamond ring (approximately 3.50 carats) from the estate of Oscar-winning actor Walter Matthau’s wife, Carol Matthau, who was the rumoured inspiration behind the Holly Golightly character in Truman Capote’s 1958 classic novella, Breakfast at Tiffany’s (estimate $40,000-$60,000).

There are also less expensive – yet nevertheless covetable ­– items going under the hammer, including an 18ct two-colour gold diamond brooch by the iconic Verdura label founded by Fulco Verdura – a designer whose earlier works include the Byzantine-inspired Maltese Cross cuffs, which became a signature of Coco Chanel’s personal style.