March 30 2011
My last runway show (women’s fall/winter 2011) was a month ago, with the previous show (men’s fall/winter 2011) two months before that. The next show (men’s spring/summer 2012) is in about 12 weeks so I feel as light as a feather.
I don’t particularly feel pressure to provoke or astound – the next collection will just naturally and rationally emerge. I have to admit that I’m a bit surprised that the world of fashion seems to have decided to tolerate me and my pace. Well: for the time being, I suppose.
Right now I’m in the middle of launching the fabric and leather orders for several of my lines – pre-collection, men’s, Drkshdw, Lilies, shoes and accessories collections – which will be shown at the end of June. I have swatches of silk seersuckers, vegetable-dyed shantung silks, black waxed canvases, washed leathers that look as if they have a dark metallic/mineral surface, and sea leopard hides.
This might be one of the most deliciously pleasurable steps in a collection – like a kid playing with dead leaves and feathers in a corner of a garden, or a witch making a brew to cast a spell. Liza Minnelli, Dorothy Squires and Julie London are playing in the background in my office overlooking the gardens of the Ministry of Defence in Paris. The music used to be louder and a lot more aggressive 10 years ago, but I’m almost 50 now so maybe I don't need to work myself up the way I used to. Well, except when I’m at the gym, where I’m going right now, where I’ll listen to hard techno such as Trance Generators or B Ames mixes.
I’ll walk across the Tuileries, where the magnolias are budding and the daffodils are already blooming, to Place de l’Opéra, where my gym is. Working out is a wonderful blend of vanity and meditation. It’s an expression of simple physical release and joy, like dancing to disco used to be. It’s a time to dream and let ideas come that I jot down on my iPhone notes app to download later.
I’m not as goal-oriented as I used to be, so I don’t have a trainer or a very specific programme; it’s more about maintenance (and unabashed preening). I spend an hour there, wander back, have lunch, take a nap and keep going until dinner with my better half, “the hun”, at 10pm. It’s lovely to have gotten to this calm place, and I certainly don’t take it for granted.