February 09 2011
Mark C O’Flaherty
I’m not particularly a denim person. In my mid-twenties I made a point of giving up jeans for a year because I found it lazy dressing, and I never really went back. But I didn’t stop wearing the solid-black overdyed variety entirely – they’re incredibly versatile when worn with a blazer and a pair of Church’s when you’re travelling.
For a long time I was taken by Uniqlo’s thrifty, slim-fit variety, with a slight stretch. But then last year I bought a pair of jeans at the flagship Acne Studio store in Stockholm (it was a bank in the 1970s, and the site of the siege that gave birth to Stockholm Syndrome), and discovered that these might be the best black jeans ever – which is one of the reasons why I was so delighted when the Acne Studio store opened on London’s Dover Street last year.
The range at Acne can be quite bewildering, so I only discovered that the so-called Mod variety (£130) were the ones I was looking for by discussing my usual wardrobe with a shop assistant. “Like a well-cut trouser, but not…” was one of my vague requirements. The Mod cut, as I discovered, sits in a mature, credible fashion (no exposed underwear), with a relaxed but narrow fit above the knee (it has a slight, forgiving stretch) and a leg that tapers from knee to hem. It’s an absolutely perfect cut for shoes, shirt and belt, and the fabric and stitching are of excellent quality. They’re dyed to give a deep, intense black that’s meant to fade and weather with washing, but I dry-clean them to keep them pristine. I recommend you do too.