February 16 2010
I must confess that, despite spending a lot of time in Paris over the years, I had never heard of Relais de L’Entrecôte until I read about it in a French magazine. It is, I subsequently discovered, an old-fashioned brasserie offering the best steak frites in Paris. The formula hasn’t changed in decades: steak, with the restaurant’s famous mustard sauce, and superb frites, served by waiting staff in traditional black and white uniforms.
There is a wine list and a dessert menu, but as far as the main course is concerned, there is only one question: how would you like your steak cooked? There is usually a long queue for both lunch and dinner, especially later in the evening – though it moves quickly – and tellingly it consists of well-dressed BCBG types as well as Left Bank bobos.
Steak frites, €24. Wine from €16.