Food | The Reconnoisseur

A treacly, sophisticated treat from Dorset

The heather honey with an unmistakable darkly bitter taste

A treacly, sophisticated treat from Dorset

June 24 2011
Charlotte Abrahams

I am particular about many things, but when it comes to breakfast, I am positively obsessive. There must always be an orange, strong black coffee made in a Bialetti Moka Express and a small bowl of muesli. And at the weekends there should also be a slice (or two) of stonebaked white toast spread with unsalted butter and Robert Field’s darkly bitter heather honey.

Deep brown in colour, treacly in texture and filled with the air bubbles that are the trademark of a really good heather honey (its thixotropic nature prevents the air coming to the surface­), this is food that I would happily break all my “shop local” principles to secure. Fortunately however, Field is based in a watchtower overlooking Swanage bay, a mere 500 metres from our seaside retreat and the heather that his bees feast upon grows on the nearby Dorset heathlands.

Field has 450 hives spread across Dorset and Wiltshire so he does make other honeys, too – the Isle of Purbeck set honey for, example, is very good on a slice of fresh bread in the afternoon, while the wild flowers of Salisbury Plain make for a rather delicious honey to sweeten natural yoghurt – but it’s the heather I can’t be without.

Field Honey Farms honey costs from £3 per jar.

See also

Breakfasts, Dorset, Honeys