October 26 2009
Every guidebook to Venice proffers the same impossible advice: eat where the natives do. Impossible, because reasonably priced restaurants genuinely patronised by locals appear to be all but extinct. However, we have discovered a brilliant surviving example of this endangered species, and for escapees from the Cipriani it is conveniently located on la Guidecca. Al Redentore is an old-fashioned family trattoria supervised by Mama, with superb seafood cooked by a middle-aged son and served by his pretty daughters. We find it the perfect recovery zone after a visit to Palladio’s church of the Redentore.