September 03 2010
Mark C O’Flaherty
Berlin may be one of the most creative, exciting and hedonistic cities in Europe, but many of its most celebrated restaurants are a little heavy for my palate. However, a couple of months ago I discovered Dos Palillos, which takes up most of the ground floor of the Casa Camper hotel and where the cuisine is refreshingly light and inventive. There are two tasting menus of small, flavoursome, visually ravishing dishes with splendid local wines: the 12-course Menue Un Palillo is €45, and the 16-course Menue Dos Palillos is €60. This is now my default favourite dining room in Berlin.
Dos Palillos is an international, artfully conceived experience – the long, stark dining bar (flanked by a curious 1980s disco gold curtain and facing a pristine open kitchen) appears Scandic but has been designed by Parisians Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, while head chef Albert Raurich hails originally from Ferran Adrià’s el Bulli and continues to oversee the original Dos Palillos in Barcelona.
Then of course there’s the food – hot oyster with sake (second picture) and Japanese monkfish liver are both wonderful, but the standout dishes are a more literal fusion of Spanish tapas and Asian cuisine, such as the prawn steamed dumpling with Ibérico pork belly. It’s dynamic cuisine, in the chicest setting in Mitte.