October 29 2009
Note to self: when next in Florence, make a point of booking for dinner at Lungarno 23, which opened at the end of June. Ginevra Brandolini d’Adda, the genius head of PR at the Four Seasons Palazzo Gherardesca and a born-and-bred Florentine, cites it as her new favourite restaurant (one she’s not necessarily sharing with the hotel’s guests, so I’m feeling doubly well-informed).
The concept is a mouthwatering one: a menu based around grass-fed 100 per cent organic Chianina beef, sourced exclusively from the La Fratta farm, just outside Sinalunga, in Tuscany (one of only three that still breeds pure Chianina in the area). Order burgers, roast beef panini, tartare, or carpaccio; all are served with organic vegetable salads and a variety of wines produced by “friends of the La Fratta family” (those would be the Antinori and the Frescobaldis, among others). And then there’s the location, in the ground floor of the Palazzo Capponi, with a wide terrace looking over the Arno. Don’t let the incongruity of eating a burger while admiring the Duomo throw you: it’s certainly not stopping tutto Firenze from mobbing the place.
Lunch costs around €25 per person, including house wine.