Food | Need To Now

A partridge in a… mallard, in a fowl, in a goose…

1 Lombard Street’s 14 bird-within-a-bird Tudor feast

A partridge in a… mallard, in a fowl, in a goose…

December 27 2012
Mary Lussiana

Those who revel in festivities of a lavish, traditional nature, and are sad to bid farewell to the Christmas feasting, will be delighted to hear of the treat that 1 Lombard Street restaurant launched earlier this month and will continue to offer in the New Year. For while the partridge is not in a pear tree, it is accompanied by French hens, doves and a goose in this recreation of a Tudor feast at the hands of chef Juri Ravagli.

Served in the splendid surroundings of this Grade II-listed former bank’s private dining room, the menu consists of a 14 “Bird in a Bird” dish. Quail, squab pigeon, teal, wood pigeon, French partridge, mallard, woodcock, guinea fowl, pheasant, Barbary duck, Aylesbury duck, peacock and a wild American turkey are all deboned, flattened and marinated individually in a mixture of herbs and spices for three days before being stuffed, one inside another, into a huge goose. After six hours of roasting, the carefully constructed creation is carved into thin slices, revealing not five golden rings but a variety of edible ones, served with root vegetables, game crisps and a rich, gamey jus made from the roasted birds’ bones.

Serving 20 to 25 guests, the dish is priced at £995, while the intricate preparations needed for such a gastronomic adventure mean that a week’s advance notice is required. 1 Lombard Street, one of the pillars of culinary life in the City, is conveniently positioned opposite the Bank of England – and luckily for diners, any austerity measures clearly remain on that side of the street.