November 28 2012
Chopsticks at the ready: X-Treme Chinese
cuisine, the signature style of Bo Innovation (the only independent Hong Kong
restaurant to be awarded two Michelin stars), is coming to London. Bo London is
chef-patron Alvin Leung’s first restaurant outside Hong Kong, and will signal a
return to the city of his birth when its doors open on Thursday December 6. “I’m
really looking forward to becoming part of the city’s dynamic food scene,”
Diners will be able to explore a completely new dimension of Chinese gastronomy as the self-taught chef delivers signature X-Treme dishes, including the wonderfully named Bed & Breakfast, a concoction of quail eggs, crispy taro nest and caviar; Cloud, which combines mackerel, black sesame ponzu sauce, ginger and rose; and X-Treme, which is a take on the classic steamed dumpling dish xiao long bao.
The restaurant’s calm, contemporary interior provides a soothing backdrop to the menu’s fizz and fireworks. Away from the main room, a bar seating 10 opens for lunch and serves dim sum throughout the day. Two semi-private dining areas are embraced within the main restaurant, one of which is an eight-seater Chef’s Table offering a glimpse of the culinary action. A private dining room on the lower-ground floor takes decorative inspiration from Hong Kong’s Wan Chai district skyline at night and is a more intimate space for 20, who can savour the kitchen’s theatrics.
The extensive dim sum menu ranges from wild mushroom dumpling to suckling pig Sichuan vanilla apple, with a lunch-time selection that includes black truffle XO har gau, chilli crab shu mai with pork or calamari ball kaffir lime. The set lunch menu offers two of these dim sum dishes and one main course for £30 (or £35 with the dessert of the day). Main courses in turn feature imaginative fusions such as scallops with peas, crispy woba and jolo, cod sauternes with saffron miso, or beggar-style quail with wolfberry, lotus leaf and yellow lentils.
Spoilt for choice, the selection can seem overwhelming, but it’s worth mentioning that true gastronomic adventurers can indulge in a 12- or 15-course vegetarian menu (£88/£128), the 12-course Ode to Great Britain (£98) or the 15-course Chef’s Menu (£138).
First picture: fermented black bean and organic honey cod with pickled pak-choi and ginger. Second picture: wagyu beef and cheong fun noodle rolls with black truffle sauce. Third picture: hamachi with black sesame sauce, rose essence, ginger and lemon balm.