Food | The Reconnoisseur

A table for two in a private cove

Keeping romance alive with balmy beachside dining

A table for two in a private cove

March 17 2010
Julian Allason

However wonderful a resort’s children’s facilities may be, parental sanity is best preserved by an occasional escape. For us it is dinner à deux. The more romantic and secluded the better. A single table on a private beach, say.

For winter sun with the family I know of few places more stylish than the Four Seasons Sharm El Sheikh (especially now that BA has introduced direct flights with flat beds in business class). But while the hotel’s restaurants are all excellent, none of them quite hit the mark for couples in escape mode. Until recently.

Some romantic soul – perhaps general manager Jean-Claude Wietzel, late of Paris’s Hotel George V – has come up with the idea of very private dining. There are a number of secluded beauty spots in the hotel’s sub-tropical gardens to choose from, with a table set up under palm trees overlooking the Red Sea. Our favourite is right by the water in a private cove reached by steps down the cliff. Not the place to order a soufflé perhaps, but the chef will cheerfully barbecue a lobster before discreetly retiring. Who says romance is dead?

Double rooms at Four Seasons Sharm El Sheikh from £376. British Airways London to Sharm El Sheikh return from £354 mid-season.