Drink | The Reconnoisseur

What a treat: afternoon tea – and champagne

A secret London tea room gets fizzy

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What a treat: afternoon tea – and champagne

November 19 2009
Avril Groom

One of my favourite relaxation points during a busy West End day is Miller Harris. I am very fond of both Lyn Harris’s individualist perfumes and her secret tea room (picture two). She has always been very enquiring about fragrance, and when she started experimenting with the “perfumes” in tea, she discovered parallels with tea blending, created two mixes of her own, and turned the back of her Bruton Street shop into a small tea room with comfy yellow banquettes and cakes designed, typically, to complement the teas’ flavours.

Now I’ve discovered that she has added a superior layer, trying the same trick with her favourite champagne, Ruinart, discovering the secrets of the citrus and peach tones in their Blanc de Blancs blend when she met winemaker Fred Panaiotis. The cakes that go with it – lemon meringue cupcakes and peach triands – are such a smooth blend, I couldn’t even feel guilty about such an indulgence. Call it an olfactory experiment instead. Afternoon tea with a glass of Ruinart, three cakes and bergamot tea (picture one) is £19. Next up: Lyn Harris is considering a perfume inspired by the champagne.