March 16 2010
Hong Kong and Tokyo are both witnessing the return of prodigal sons to their respective culinary scenes – high returns, in more than one sense.
Hong Kong’s Upper House (www.upperhouse.com), the newest (and roundly-praised) boutique hotel in town, recently opened Café Gray Deluxe on its 49th floor (first picture). This will be music to the ears of fans of chef Gray Kunz, who have mourned his consecutive closings in New York, culminating with the 2008 demise of the original Café Gray.
Meanwhile in Tokyo, at the ANA InterContinental Tokyo (second picture; www.anaintercontinental-tokyo.jp), Pierre Gagnaire – of his eponymous Eighth Arrondissement restaurant and Sketch in London fame – will debut on March 19 on the 36th floor of the hotel (which new managers InterContinental are bent on making into a five-star attraction fit to compete with the city’s icons such as the Park Hyatt).
It’s his only restaurant in town, and promises to showcase his dynamic and iconoclastic style. There might be nitrogen, there is likely to be foam. But the chances are that the cuisine will dazzle as convincingly as the Tokyo skyline.